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Silk Cayes [12 April 1994]

My Belize travel journal, continued

We ventured off Pumpkin after goodbyes to Dash (a terrific dog w/caramel colored eyes & a mane like a lion's). Yesterday's wind had diminished to a breeze & paddling was much easier. On the way here we stopped at Round Caye, an uninhabited island w/dense palms, a tiny beach & a shore cluttered w/coral stones--the detritus of a fecund sea. We wandered around a bit & contemplated an old conch shell, its corners worn smooth--it looked petrified, prehistoric & I begin to think how we have histories of our civilizations but the reef & the fishes around it don't. All we see when we snorkle or SCUBA are brief glimpses, we don't know the narrative of the coral ramparts of the reef here on the the Silks--the interplay of weather, water, stone, & fish.

The Silks are three cayes arranged in a delta w/the vertices pointing North, West, & South. They are beautiful, almost stereotypical, save for the little bit of trash on the one we're on. After Danny speared three good-sized hogfish for us we two snorkled off the reef. On the outside it's about 30 feet deep--really deeper than I've seen w/my own two eyes--that's the thing about snorkeling, what we see on the surface is so completely different from what we see under water--it's a fair kingdom of brightly colored inhabitants & massive fortresses w/delicate hanging gardens of fan coral. It's astoundingly otherworldly--I know how an astronaut would feel if he set foot on an inhabited planet.

For dinner I cooked up the hogfish in tomatoes, onions, habanero, soya sauce, a dash of lime--A-OK, the boys were satisfied.

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